Mystic of the Orient

I figured I hadn't been writing for quite a while now, and wanted to get back to it. There is a lot that has happened in the interim, and I would want to think through and pen down my thoughts about it sometime. But for now, to get back in the groove, here is a travelogue that I wrote for one of my office newsletters. Admittedly it is not my proudest work, but I had to make it more factual rather than emotional - which meant I ended up writing what I saw, and not so much of what I felt. Excuse me if it reads more like what you would get on tripadvisor, but this will have to do for now!

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Any trip to China is incomplete without a stop by at Beijing. Steeped in history and with its rich cultural heritage, Beijing’s presence as one of the world’s leading tourist destinations is further enhanced by stunning architectural marvels created for the 2008 Olympics. As a consequence it has the perfect blend for a tourist city – modern world class wonders for the architecturally inclined, well preserved ancient structures, monuments and gardens for those who like their history, and cheap and world class transport system for the ones who prefer a city on the move.

There are a lot of activities for someone looking to tour Beijing over a weekend – and it would be advisable to take more time out to see the city. Tourist attractions are delightfully sprinkled across the city, silent guardians of a history worth thousands of years. Besides, not only is Beijing a large city by itself, it also has great places to visit within an hour’s distance, that one should include in the itinerary when visiting.

One could start from the heart of the city itself, which boasts of arguably the largest city square in the world, a venue seeped in history, not all of it entirely pleasant. Do stop by at sunrise or sunset for the flag raising (or lowering) ceremony – sharp, methodical, and precise in a fashion that has now become a Chinese hallmark. All around the Tiananmen Square are famous building worth a dekko – Gate of Heavenly Palace to the north, Great Hall of the People on the west (national people’s congress meets here) and National Museum of China to the east. Across the road from Tiananmen Square lies the Forbidden City, a large palace complex first built over 600 years ago, and presided over by many a dynasty. For people who love their history, it is an absolute treasure trove with many well-preserved artifacts.

Head north to visit another of Beijing’s great historical sites – the Summer Palace. This used to be the imperial retreat for emperors, spread over 10 square miles, and currently the largest preserved royal garden in China. Summer Palace mainly consists of two broad areas - Longevity Hill and Kunming Lake. Spend some time walking around ancient pavilions, mansions, temples and bridges, admiring the beauty of Chinese architecture and garden arts, or just relax along the lake. The Palace closes by 6pm, so take time out to visit the nearby Olympic sites – the absolute architectural wonder that is the Bird’s Nest, which was the main venue for the 2008 Olympic Games, and the ‘Water Cube’ right across which hosted the aquatic events. All the Olympic venues are within the proximity, and are open till late, which can make for a languid evening outing.

No visit to Beijing can ever be complete without vising the Great Wall. Constructed over hundreds of  years across dynasties, and spanning a total length of upwards of 8000 kms, the Wall has many segments that can be reached from different parts of North China. From Beijing, there are about 8 sections that are within an hour’s drive, of which Badaling is the most popular. For those seeking the not-so-well-trodden path, Mutianyu is another section that can be reached easily from Beijing, and gets relatively fewer tourists. Either choice is a great opportunity for a morning hike – and the views from higher ramparts along the Wall are absolutely spectacular. The climbing can be steep in sections, and with little shade, so be prepared with strong footwear, sunblock, water and sunglasses. Climb to as many ramparts as you want, and there would be uncharted bulwarks as far as eyes can see. And very disappointingly, contrary to popular myth, the Wall is not visible from space!

Among other places, another good outstation site to visit is the Ming Tombs – the burial sites of the Ming dynasty emperors.  Two of these have been excavated and are open to public – Dingling and Changling. Once back in the city, do visit Temple of Heaven, one of Beijing’s largest royal altars, surrounded by gardens with centuries old cypresses and junipers. Spend an evening walking around the famed ‘Hutongs’ – neighbourhoods preserving the old ways of life in Beijing, with old city lanes connecting to courtyards of traditional compact homes. For the gastronomically inclined, the famous ‘Beijing Roast Duck’ is absolutely un-missable.

The heart of the world’s most populous nation bustles with charm, culture and flirtations with modernity compared to its neighbor Shanghai – a city much more modern, picture perfect and arguably more soulless. Beijing is a city unwilling to let go of its rich heritage along its relentless march to prosperity – not an easy thing to do – and for that, we must be grateful. For it is an excursion like this that leaves one feeling richer in their experiences, and thankful for the world we live in.